Notes From a New Zealand Country Kitchen

Orange Marmalade – August 09

Today, for the first time in my life, I like (perhaps even love) marmalade.

While the idea of a jam made out of citrus fruit has always appealed to me, I’ve never tasted one before that didn’t make my face and tongue twist and contort in extreme displeasure. But my family love the stuff, so I dutifully make a batch every winter.

Usually I mince grapefruit and lemons in a food processor, chuck the fruit in a pot with water and sugar, stir and boil until set-point. Then bottle, label and forget about it for a year.

This year, following extensive advise from my marmalade loving sister, I decided to try making some in a more traditional and careful manner. The result has proven well worth the effort. This marmalade is sweet, tender and leaves your mouth with an ‘orange wine-gum’ taste all day.

Here’s the recipe;

Very finely slice 900 grams oranges and 100 grams lemons, with pips removed. Place in a large pan with 2 1/2 liters of water, cover and leave overnight to allow the fruit to soften. Boil the fruit mixture until the rind is very soft and slightly transparent. Remove from heat and add 9 cups (220ml each) sugar, return to med heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Leave to boil steadily, occasionally removing scum with a slotted spoon, until set-point (see note) has been reached. Pour into hot, sterilised jam jars and seal.

Makes approximately 2 1/2 liters

To test for set-point

Place two small plates in a freezer to cool while cooking the fruit. When the marmalade begins to thicken, put a little on one of the plates and wait 30 seconds for the mix to reach room temperature. Then, push a finger through the fruit and watch to see if it ‘wrinkles’ in front of your finger. If it does, the marmalade is ready to bottle. If it doesn’t, boil for a further 10 minutes and test again with the second plate.